The Trouble With Strapless. (A Rant.)

I understand that clear bra straps aren't truly invisible, but what I didn't expect to find when I Googled them, hoping to find pictures of them actually worn with clothing (seriously, are there any?), were lengthy message boards about the "ugliness" and "unacceptability" of bra straps showing, period.  I'm tired of the stigma.

Image from lanebryant.com

Nope, Lane Bryant, this isn't a picture of 

"clear bra straps under a dress."

I understand that there are a variety of strapless bras available in the full-bust market.  But even if they work very well for some women, others still won't be able to get much lift or a very good shape from them.  Some women will not have the time to find one that really works if they have to go to an event.  Some women are hesitant to spend so much money on an undergarment they might only wear once (strapless bras are usually more expensive for the full-busted).  And I'm tired of being told, "But they make strapless bras in your size!" as if their mere existence means that I can wear them without any problem.

Because darn it, I really do need the straps.  Bust room is usually provided in a certain area, waistlines are assumed to be here, armholes are just here, and if your chest doesn't remain within certain limits, a garment might not fit right.  For me, even though many come in my size range, I've never had a strapless bra keep me within those limits.*

<--Provided bust room

<--Where bust sits in strapless bra

 

... Nope. Nope. Nope.

 

Image from target.com

On these snarky message boards about bra straps showing, I'd often read, "That is just so tacky!" And on more than one occasion, this sentiment was followed by, "I'd suggest an adhesive bra if you have to wear something more revealing."  Perhaps all of this just caught me in a bad mood, but it royally ticked me off.  I couldn't help but think that if I currently have trouble finding decent strapless bras at a fairly common full-bust size, imagine how women with larger breasts must feel when confronted with this sort of "advice."  Basically, what I see when I read this type of comment is: Choose to wear things that cover your bra straps, or I'll judge you and talk about you behind your back.  And if you have to wear a particular style for a party/formal/wedding/etc., you can get something with inadequate support/poor shape and likely feel less attractive in it than your less-busty companions.  (Oh, and by the way, I'll probably judge you for the way your breasts look in it, too.) 

And let me tell you about my last adventure with an adhesive bra.  I was 18 and going to prom, and because I wanted to fit in--I'm not saying this was a good or mature choice--I just had to get the cute low-backed spaghetti-strap dress.  I ended up with a Nu-Bra and a good four, maybe five feet of duct tape trying to get it to hold me up and make everything look halfway decent.  I was hot and uncomfortable, and whenever my date (Mr. Nerd. Yes, he remembers this.) would bump into me, there was a dull, hollow thudding sound like rapping on cardboard box. Also, taking that sucker off hurt.  

Seeing how some people make clothes out of it nowadays,

I should have just made an entire dress out of the stuff.

I do adhere to situation-specific guidelines.  I don't wear a strappy top to someone's family event if I know the family is on the more conservative side.  I try to be respectful of any cultural observations. But I'm not OK with discounting an entire subset of clothing because someone is going to get into a tizzy over visible bra straps.  I think that attitude is, well, tacky.  And adhesive bras are great for some people.  But just as I wouldn't go around saying, "Taking supplements is tacky!  I'd suggest changing your diet," to all and sundry**, please, please don't go around recommending them as as cure-all for people's strapless ailments.  

They're not.  Trust me. 

*Except the strapless basque under my wedding dress, which had to be altered along with my dress, which was a custom item itself.  But I'm not willing to do that every time, for obvious reasons.

**"Well, if your child just has to be anemic, then I'd suggest more spinach." 

Thesaurus Thursday: "Wonted." + Freya Hopscotch Longline Review.

Today's word is "wonted," an adjective meaning, "customary, habitual, or usual."


I recently received my first longline and am now loathe to return to the wonted discomfort of regular bras, despite a few glaring fit issues.

*********************

I have always wanted a longline but been hesitant to purchase one, because I would fall in love with the patterns on Freya's padded half-cup designs, and I knew I needed a 28H, which they did not (and still don't) make.  Right now, though, after some weight shifting around, I'm sitting pretty comfortably at a small-ish 30 band and ~FF cup in most of my bras, so I decided to take the plunge and order this:

Freya Hopscotch Padded Longline

freyalingerie.com

Isn't she adorable?  I'm a sucker for cotton-candy colors and prints that aren't very bold, though; this might be too "sweet" for many people's tastes.  I ordered a 30FF, even though I knew Freya's bands tended toward the stretchier side, because my ribcage flares out a bit beneath an indent where normal bands sit before tapering to my waist, and I wanted to be able to breathe!  I should not have worried; the Hopscotch band is very stretchy. If your ribcage doesn't have a flare anywhere, I'd definitely recommend sizing down in the band if you're between band sizes, especially because there are only two columns of hooks and eyes.*

While a 28 would probably last longer, the 30 is still comfortable for me.  In fact, my first thought was, "Why are all my other bras not this comfortable?"  My next thoughts were, "The gore doesn't quite tack because the cups need to be a bit deeper, and there's some side- and quad-boob, but darn it, I like how my boobs look, so we'll just... not scoop-and-swoop completely, shall we?"

Top is semi-scooped.  Bottom is (er, mostly) scooped.

It should be noted that despite the bad picture quality, 

the colors in real life are more similar to my photos than the stock photo,

slightly more muted.

Yes, I know... I'm setting a terrible example!  A 28GG would likely check off more of the "perfect fit" requirements, but again, Freya's longlines are only made up to G cups.**  I could return this for a 30G, but (shhh!) sometimes I appreciate the extra oomph from slightly-too-small cups.  And I wore it all yesterday without any of the fit issues showing through my clothes. The width of the wires is actually perfect in this size, even though on me, they could stand to be a bit taller. This is a very low-cut bra; I imagine it would be great for those who like semi-wide, low wires, shallower cups, and less coverage. I think it could work for less shallow shapes too, though sizing up in the cup might be necessary.  But if you need a lot of depth and narrower wires a la Comexim or Ewa Michalak, this would not be your best bet.

One thing that many people have complained about with Freya's longlines is the band riding up, scrunching, and/or flipping.  The band did immediately crease right beneath the cups in front (you can see it in the top photo).  This was a minor cosmetic issue for me; it didn't appear to affect the fit. Unfortunately, the flipping band/riding up does happen.  It seems to be a combination of a stretchy band and lack of boning in the front to hold it in place. If it becomes too much of an issue, I'll probably add some flexible boning, an alteration I saw on Fussy Busty's Patsy longline. A tighter band might correct this without boning, but as it is, I'd rather not exchange something that's already comfortable and doesn't bother me, especially when the sister size of 28G wouldn't be a perfect fit anyway.  I know others have said the rolling and flipping can become uncomfortable and itchy, or create weird lumps and bumps.  If you really want the Hopscotch and have sensitive skin or hate it when bands don't stay in place, I'd plan for adding boning to be on the safe side.

So even though the Freya Hopscotch isn't a perfect fit, I'm keeping it, because it is so, so, so comfortable.  ... And also cleavage.  That is all.



*I don't believe any of Freya's longlines have three?  Let me know if I've forgotten one!
**Please, please, please, Freya, could you extend these to at least H cups like with the normal padded half-cup designs?

Thesaurus Thursday: "Beneficent."

Hi everyone!  Today's Thesaurus Thursday is also a general call to help out a good cause:  A Sophisticated Pair is accepting bra donations for Triangle Residential Options for Substance Abusers (TROSA).  If you don't have extra bras or prefer to do other things with bras you no longer use*, that's OK, but if you do have any just taking up space and don't know what to do with them, consider sending them over!  They would prefer them in by the 25th of April, but they'll be doing fittings and taking more donations in the future. They can also provide tax receipts including shipping costs.

So today's word is "beneficent," an adjective meaning "generous or doing good."  

Consider being beneficent and sending some bras for TROSA over to A Sophisticated Pair; you can find more information about it here.

* I know I sometimes end up with a few spares in the back of a lingerie drawer.  We all tell ourselves they "might" fit again, right?

Thesaurus Thursday: "Beleaguer."/People are Nosy.

Today's word is "beleaguer," a verb meaning to harass or besiege.

If you have ever been questioned about or chastised for what you choose to wear, whom you choose to associate with, or what you do in your spare time, here's a word of warning: you will be beleaguered by "well-meaning" individuals to an even greater degree if job prospects are involved.

*********************

I was thinking about this the other day.  The laundry list of questions and advice regarding your personal life during job hunting would border on offensively intrusive at any other time.  I'll give you some examples from my past experience:

Make sure you don't put anything inappropriate on Facebook.
If I spewed hatred on my page, talked about illegal activities, or was obviously emotionally unstable, I could understand concern.  I don't/am not.  You might find out that I (gasp!) like bras.  Also, sometimes I talk about boobs on my blog page. I have them.  A lot of other people have them. Pretending that they aren't there is a bit silly.

Isn't talking about bras/boobs inappropriate?
Is it?  Please give me a non-sexist answer to this question: Why? 

Ahhh!  So NSFW!

Are all of your friends' blogs/pages free of questionable content?
If you have read 1984, you should understand why this question scares me.

Make sure your blog's content is OK.
One moment... Yes, it's fine. It hasn't had an emotional break down and run away.

Are all of your pictures safe for employers to look at?
All of my wedding photos contain subliminal messaging telling viewers to ruthlessly pursue world domination.

No, I mean the pictures on your blog's page.
Bras usually cover as much if not more than bikinis.  I always thought going to the beach was a G-rated activity.

I haven't been in a while; maybe I'm remembering it wrong?

But sometimes in bras you can see a glimpse of what's underneath.
You know, I saw a man topless on Facebook once.  He didn't even have a bra on.  I've been shocked about the lack of an outcry.  I mean, think of the children.

You need to make sure that no one can get your personal information.
I'll do everything within my power to keep away creeps, but if you believe that not having a Facebook/Twitter/Instagram/other account means that people can't easily access your personal information if they really want it, I have a mansion on Mars to sell you.

Don't post anything offensive online.
This is related to the first but usually refers to objectively offensive content.  It's an instruction that basically assumes that I'm stupid and/or a bad person-- why else would I post something offensive?  I suppose a lot of Twitter users might be offended by the occasional update about how much I dislike horribly botched grammar.

LEFT TACKLE. 

I just posted something offensive.

You need new clothes.
Please note that the clothes I'm currently wearing don't meet the criteria for an office dress code because I am at dinner with my husband and not at an interview.  Does job hunting make everyone think that they have the right to comment on every. single. outfit. I wear in public? (The answer is, apparently, "Yes.")

Don't dye your hair/get anything pierced/get tattoos during this time.
While I would check out a dress code to make sure that I could easily comply with it, I would neither respect nor work for someone who wouldn't hire a competent, qualified individual on the basis of physical appearance.

Network/refine your resume/do X and not Y in an interview...
All suggestions regarding resumes, applications, interviews, and networking have been filed under "Advice given by 10+ people.  This morning."

Try to act like all you ever do is go to church.
...
...
...
...  Seriously?

Thesaurus Thursday: "Molded Cups."/Bras!

Or rather: Bra-sized Swimwear!  In this Thesaurus Thursday: Bra Edition, I'll be doing a swimsuit review.*

Today's words are "molded cups."  Bras that have molded cups have been made from fabric that has been shaped by heating techniques to mimic the form of a woman's breasts.  They can be padded or unpadded.  They are often called "t-shirt bras," because they usually don't have embellishment that shows through clingier t-shirt materials.

Freya's Deco Honey.  The Deco is a very popular molded cup bra.

Molded cup bras can be difficult to get a good fit in, because the cups have been shaped to one particular mold that may or may not be similar to the shape of your breasts.

********************

I love my Freya Decos (I may or may not have five of them...), but I have had to admit that they have some minor fit issues, so when I first heard about molded cup bikinis, I wasn't that interested.  For years, I have worn bikinis that simply covered up the important bits.  I would get XL triangle tops and tie the backs and neck ties really tightly to get enough support.  This was neither comfortable nor particularly flattering, but I was intimidated by cup-sized swimwear; I had nowhere close by to try on the tops, so I would either have to cross my fingers and hope or order multiple sizes (and returns are my nemesis), and the prices always seemed so crazy when I could pay $15-20 for a complete set at Old Navy.  But when I saw this molded cup bikini...

Curvy Kate's Pebble Moulded Bikini Top Blue Dot/Pebble Short

Top: Sizes 28 - 30 D-J, 32 D-HH, 34 D-H, 36 D-GG, 38 D-G

Shorts: Sizes 8-20

... I knew I had to have it.  Blue is one of my favorite colors, I'm a sucker for polka dots, and I love lower-rise bikini bottoms that have thicker sides and aren't cut in a V-shape in back.  It also comes in a regular padded top and has a side-tie bottom as an option.    For sizing reference, I bought this bikini with measurements: underbust 27", full bust 36.5", hip 37".  

From various full-bust blogger reviews, it looked like Curvy Kate swimwear usually ran smaller in the back and bigger in the cup than their bras.  They recommend starting with your usual unpadded Curvy Kate size, if you know it.  Because I'm on the smaller side of a 28 band and don't have any unpadded Curvy Kates, I was advised to go with a 28 and my Deco cup size, so a UK 28GG.  Because my Decos do gape some at the top edges (I'm fuller on bottom), I was debating between a 28G and GG.  I chose the larger size because this bikini top is modeled on Curvy Kate's "Smoothie," a molded cup bra that some women with balanced or lower fullness have had better luck with than the Deco.  The first thing I did when it arrived was compare the Pebble and the Deco:

I forget how long the Deco band is until I see it next to my other 28's.

They are actually remarkably similar cup-wise.  The width of the underwires is about the same, but the Pebble curves in a bit more at the top of the cups and is a little shallower overall than the Deco.  The cups of the Pebble are less stiff as well; the center gore of the Pebble is wider and higher, and the straps are set farther apart, but all of these differences are not that pronounced.  The main difference is that Pebble's band is definitely shorter, more like a true-to-size or slightly small 28.  Another thing I noticed about the Pebble aesthetically: the polka dots on the top are larger than the ones on the bottom.  I think the print still looks good, but I would prefer the ones on top and bottom to match.  I do wonder if the size of the dots have anything to do with cup size. If you get a J cup, do the dots become even bigger?

When I finally tried it on, I made a decision: I am never going back to wearing string bikini tops.  Ever.   I might have to channel my inner 15-year-old and burn them while playing Taylor Swift in the background.  I didn't know bikinis could be so comfortable!  While I don't get the same epic cleavage that Curvy Kate's model gets in their photos, it's enough that I feel beach-y and not like I'm wearing a bra while still feeling supported and contained.   

I think we need better lighting in our house.

The bikini isn't 100% perfect, but 98% isn't too shabby!  Because I do have lower fullness, there is a tiny amount of empty space at the bottom of the cups-- what some women call the "orange-in-a-glass effect."  It is barely noticeable, so I would say this would still work well for lower or balanced fullness. One more significant complaint about the top would be the placement of the straps and the height under the arms.  I have fairly wide shoulders and low-set breasts, but if the cups came up any higher or the straps were set any farther apart, I would have gotten annoying rubbing and chafing.  So it's not actually a problem for me, but if you are petite or have high-set breasts or narrower shoulders, you might have better luck with other styles.  The gore is also wider, so it also might not work if you have very close-set breasts or a lot of breast tissue in the middle of your chest.

As for the shorts, I bought a 10/S and am very pleased with them.  They offer full coverage in the back, but you can adjust coverage and rise with the side ties.  An 8 would probably have fit too, but I really don't like elastic digging into my hips.  I would be curious to see how both shorts and top hold up in the water.  I don't swim that much and usually just read when I'm at the beach, so I'm not that concerned if this bikini doesn't work as activewear, but I still go in the water sometimes and don't like it when swimsuits get baggy or lose their shape.  I will be sure to update everyone when I get a chance to test it!

********************

Review Summary

Pros: Just enough coverage on top, molded cups that actually work for balanced or lower fullness, supportive/firm band, cute styling/doesn't look too lingerie-like, center gore not too high or too low, option of side-tie bikini bottoms or shorts but could easily be paired with other bottoms because of the colors and print

Cons: Wide-set straps, wires high under the arms, wider center gore, polka dots a little bigger on top than bottom (but maybe I'm just too picky), might not work well for women with a lot of upper fullness

Grade: A-

       This doesn't get as much in but has better lighting.
        ... I don't know why I stand like this in every picture.

      

*My phone camera isn't very good, and my real camera is currently not working.  So I know the photo quality is rather poor**, but hopefully you'll still get an idea of what the bikini looks like in real life!

**Also, I'm probably the only woman in my generation incapable of taking a good "selfie."  Duck face terrifies me.

Thesaurus Thursday: "Contusion"/Bras!

(I know it's Friday, but the post was done yesterday :-) )

Another week is almost over, so welcome to the second Thesaurus Thursday: Bra Edition.  After remembering how much fun it was to write the first one, I have decided to do another.  Be prepared to see the occasional Bra Edition in the future!  Because the first had a lot of basic fitting information, I would like to share more personal experiences with bras and more specific fit issues.

Today's word is "contusion," a noun that means blemish or bruise.

If you notice angry red contusions that do not fade quickly around your ribcage, on your breasts, or on your shoulders when taking off a bra, you might be wearing the wrong size.

www.quickmeme.com

"They didn't tell you at the animal shelter?

It's a complimentary service.  I save boobs, one bad bra at a time."

It is normal to get marks on skin from fitted clothing.  Jeans, socks, underwear, tights; all of them can leave marks.  It's no different with bras.  But when you have bright red, painful, itchy, or deeply indented marks and chafing, you could easily be wearing the wrong size.  I say "could be" because sometimes it is possible to simply not know what the heck is going on; you'll be perfectly comfortable and supported in your bra then suddenly freak out when you take it off.

I have a faint shadow-scar around my ribcage.  At first, I thought it was from wearing my bras too tight.  Then Mr. Nerd said he has noticed it since high school, when I wore 34 bands that barely touched my skin.  Seriously, what gives?  After experimenting with various band and cup size combinations, I found that no matter what size I wore, I got marks that didn't fade for hours. I noticed that I would get marks from socks that didn't fade for hours as well, and I knew my socks fit OK!  I could sit down on an soft uneven surface and get up five minutes later with my legs looking like road maps and a weird bruise on the back of my thighs.  I knew that some doctors thought I was anemic in the past and had been surprised when tests came back negative/normal. So I've just resigned myself to getting marks that many would point to and go, "You need a different size!" despite being very comfortable in the sizes I choose and uncomfortable in other sizes.  And how a bra feels does matter.

*************************

All of that said, there are fit issues that can cause a bra to leave bruises or more pronounced marks than one would normally get.  These include:

Too much weight supported by the shoulder straps.  If the band isn't doing roughly 80% of the work, the straps likely dig in to your shoulders.  For some people, there's no way to stop the straps from digging in a bit, because 20% can still be a lot to handle.  A too-loose band can cause the straps to dig in more than is necessary, though.  Consider going down a band size.  Don't forget to go up a cup if you wish to keep the same cup volume!

Incorrect band size.  If there is a red line going all the way around your body parallel to the floor that doesn't disappear after a short time, especially if you feel deeper ribcage pain and notice discomfort bending or twisting, consider going up a band size/down a cup accordingly.  Check to make sure your cup is large enough first.  A too-large band and too-small cup can mimic wearing a band that is too small.  A band that is too large can also cause chafing as it moves around on your body.  You can usually spot this if there is chafing while the band is riding up in the back.

Too wide/too narrow underwires/incorrect shape for your breasts.  If you end up with marks in places like beyond the edge of your breast tissue toward your back or marks on some of the tissue while other parts of your breasts are fully encased by the cups, this could be the culprit.  Try on various sizes first to make sure that you are in the right size.  If no size in a certain bra seems to fit, check out this article by Venusian*Glow on whether you need narrow or wide underwires and see if it applies to you.

      

A lot of people who need narrow underwires will purchase 

Freya and avoid Panache, for example.

(Top: Panache Tango Balconette.  Bottom: Freya Rio Balconette)

Wide/high center gore and/or wires that come up high under the arms.  A high center gore can dig into your sternum.  If you're like me and have breasts that don't quite fully separate at the top, a high or wide gore can cause pain by poking the tissue.  High underwires at the sides that poke the armpits are a problem for many petite women, but they can also create issues for any woman with high-set breasts.  Sometimes you can find alterations to fix these; By Baby's Rules gives a great tutorial on how to narrow a center gore and lower stabbing wires.  At other times it is best just to find a different style of bra that suits your shape, like choosing a plunge over a balconette if you need a very low gore.

Other.  I include an "other" category because some people have physical conditions (like anemia) that make them bruise easily.  Dehydration can even cause clothing to leave imprints that fade less quickly.  If you suspect dehydration is an issue and just drinking more water doesn't help much, you can put moisturizing products directly on the marks to help.  I like cocoa butter, but I've heard great things about other moisturizers.  Remember that all people's skin is different, and there is always the possibility of allergic reactions to cosmetic products, so read labels and find one that works for you.

©Antonio Petronzio/Cosmo

And because this is a text-heavy post, 

here is another gratuitous picture of puppies with a bra.

While I am probably in the minority getting very noticeable, longer-lasting marks on my skin from a well-fitted bra, I can tell when one is a poor fit by the marks it starts to leave that are different than usual.  When I'm wearing a cup size that is too large, I get itchier red marks nearer my back.  If I wear a band that is too small, I start to get purple-y marks on my sides and feel pinching when I bend over or extend my arms.  If wires are too wide, my breasts are pulled to the sides, and I get the marks of a too-large cup but still get quad-boob in front.

To conclude, if you are wearing a bra that feels good and fits well, and still get marks like me, don't sweat it too much.  That is, if you find the benefits of wearing a bra and getting the marks outweigh the benefits of not wearing a bra.  If you don't feel comfortable with it, there's no shame in wearing soft cups or going braless.  And if you truly hate it, but you really feel most comfortable in underwired bras, I would suggest considering a dermatologist (or other health professional if you prefer alternative/homeopathic medicine).

Stay comfortable and supported, my friends!

Thesaurus Thursday: "Center Gore."/ Bras!

Yes, I know that "center gore" is two words!  This week I am combining a Thesaurus Thursday post with an educational... braducational?... post.

The center gore is the triangular (trapezoidal, if you're picky) piece of fabric between bra cups.

The center gore did not lie flush against her breastbone, and she correctly took this as a sign that her bra did not fit.

You can be nerdy about many things, and as crazy as it might sound, I am a bra nerd.  My obsession revolves around the amazing self-esteem boost and reduction of physical ailments that women can get from wearing a properly fitted bra.  For years I wore 34DD's and dealt with shoulder pain, didn't want to exercise because I had to wear three (yes, three) sports bras, and wore over-sized sweatshirts to try to hide (or alternatively, wore "normal" clothes for my age that looked anything but age-appropriate on me).  Then I started researching bras.  I was re-fitted into a 32FF/30G at the time, and it's been an eye-opening journey ever since. In the right size, a bra can actually make your chest appear smaller and fit into clothes easier; also it can keep you from damaging your back and shoulders!  Yet somehow women, especially in the U.S., rarely get properly fitted. This is because a) we've been trained to think that talking about breasts is taboo and must revolve around s-e-x, and b) fitting myths abound, sometimes held over from an era in which bras were engineered quite differently.  I hope to dispel some of these myths here.

*************************

Myth: B cups and below are small, C's are average, and D+ cups are large.

Truth: Cup size is dependent on band size.  Two bras of different cup sizes can have the same cup volume. Going by cup volume is also called "sister sizing"; to find sister sizes, for every band size added go down a cup and vice versa. A woman who wears a 28D will have the same cup volume as a 34A, but will measure closer to 28" around the rib cage than 34".  

This woman is modeling a Curvy Kate bra.

Curvy Kate starts at a D cup.

She is likely a 28D/DD.

Victoria's Secret would probably first try to sell this woman a 34A because that's what they have in stock in a sister size. Sometimes women do need a sister size of a bra because it runs small or large, but just because a bra is a sister size doesn't mean it will fit.  A 34 on the woman above would be ridiculously large.

Myth: If you feel like you're being suffocated or pinched anywhere, it means that your band is too tight.

Truth: This is a quasi-myth, I suppose, in that if you have a cup that fits AND you feel like you're being suffocated, your band is too tight, but this is rarely the issue.  Usually, the band size is too large and the cup size way too small, making it feel like the bra is too tight overall.  Make sure that ALL breast tissue is fully encased in the cup with no spillage, including at the armpits.  A Sophisticated Pair has an excellent video of how to put on a bra that can help you before determining if your cup fits well.

Myth: You can calculate your band size by looping a measuring tape around from your back at band-level to the front of your breasts, the method shown on Victoria's Secret's website and used by their fitters.

Truth: Do you wear your bra band over your breasts?  No?  Then see the next "truth" to see the proper way to measure.  Looping the tape over your chest will almost certainly give a band size that is too large.  A too-large band will ride up at the back, can cause shoulder and back pain from tightening the straps to hold the bra in place, and can cause underwires to cut into breast tissue (often painfully) as your breasts start to fall out the bottom of the cups.The band should be firm and parallel to the floor on the loosest hook to extend the bra's life, and you should be able to slide just two fingers underneath it around the back.

A poorly fitting bra band.

Myth: You calculate your size by measuring beneath your breasts around your rib cage, adding 4, and then counting inch by inch to get cup size.

Truth: If you use a tape measure to determine your size (a good place to start but shouldn't be relied upon as much as look and feel afterwards):

1.  Measure snugly beneath your breasts around your rib cage with the tape parallel to the floor and add 0- nil, nada, nothing- to that to determine band size.
2.  To determine cup size, measure around the fullest part of your breasts; each inch above the band measurement is a cup size.  (*Edit*- this varies by brand, but most often will go <1"=AA, 1"=A, then for every inch after that: B, C, D, DD, DDD/E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ, K, etc.)

It's probably best to do this without a bra if you only have ill-fitting ones, leaning over to get the full-bust measurement.  Remember that if this size does not feel comfortable, you can always try on other sizes around it to see what fits best.  I don't know a single woman who has been properly fitted who owns only one size.

Myth: Only preteens and super-slim women need sub-32 bands.  

Truth: If you followed the measuring directions above, you've probably realized that your actual band size is smaller than you thought, often closer to your waist size.  Seeing that it's not hard to believe that people like Brittany whom I mentioned in the last post, author of the blog Thin and Curvy, needs a 24 or 26 band with a 24" waist.  Also, if a woman has "squish" around her rib cage or upper back, she could need a smaller band size to provide enough support.  Conversely, some women do have very tapered waists and will truly have a band measurement 3-4"+ larger than waist size, but having done a lot of research into bra sizing, it's rarer than you might think.  In fact, some bra bloggers have started the Bra Band Project in an effort to show that the sub-32 market is a lot larger than most people think!  (*Edit*- see the underbust survey done by June of Braless in Brazil for even more information.)

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As you start to become more acquainted with bra fitting, remember, don't listen to people who say, "There's no way you're a/an __ cup."  As mentioned above, it's totally dependent on band size, and you know what feels best on your body.  Don't listen to the people who say that you're not normal if you wind up wearing something like a 32J; it's a perfectly normal size, and they're probably in the wrong size themselves.

These women all wear G+ bras.

You also might hear that adding nothing to your rib cage measurement to get band size is "vanity sizing."  Actually, as well as accounting for bra bands not having any stretch at the time, adding 2-4 inches was also part of vintage vanity sizing.  Women wanted to get as close to the "ideal" measurements of 36-24-36 as possible and so liked the way "36something" sounded.  You'll even see this happening when modern actresses give their sizes or others try to guess them. I'm not even sure how having your actual rib cage measurement on a label can be vanity sizing?   My shoes state the number of inches my feet measure; is that vanity sizing?  Either way, adding 0 is what usually works for modern bras.  Sometimes subtracting a bit can even help!  After some crazy weight fluctuations in college, I now wear anywhere from a 28GG to a 28HH.  I rarely need a 30 and sometimes could really use a 26.  I don't feel "flattered" by these sizes or think they "mean" anything about me.  My chest is just another part of me like my eyes or feet or fingers.

Think of getting fitted as a mani/pedi, or exercise, or any relaxing or healthful activity.  Once you walk out with a properly fitting bra, you'll stand up taller (often quite literally!) and feel a little more put-together, and you're doing your body a favor by taking care of it.